[torontocbm] Re: uIEC/SD comments
- From: "danielkovacs" <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 23:59:18 -0500
Thanks for the information, Jim. I think I spent a bit more
on soldering stuff that I had planned. Soldering to the
underside of the board sounds like the easiest thing to do,
I think that's how I will do it. I don't plan on removing
the header that provides the connection to the card. I
picked up some nice brass bolts to fasten the board to the
case (The bolts will be visible so I wanted it to look
pretty).
Does anyone have any comments on the plastic used by
Commodore in the cases? Is it easy to cut? I have a
dremel-style took I will be using.
Dan
From: Jim Brain <brain@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [torontocbm] uIEC/SD comments
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 20:24:51 -0600
----- Original Message Follows -----
> I thought I'd help out with some questions here:
>
> * Cat5 cable is fine.
> * copper is preferred, but I wouldn;t drive across
> town for it. The
> oxidation aspect (which is why Cu and Al are not
> mixed in power
> line applications) is not a major factor in this
> case
> * Shielded is always preferred.
> * Buy Rosin core solder. Make sure you do not get
> "acid" core (Yes,
> rosin is an acid, but acid core is much more acidic)
> * If you solder to the 1x13 black connector, any of
> the usual
> soldering pencils are fine. As Tom notes, less
> exposure is best.
> 25W to 35W seems to be the norm here. I would
> encourage you to
> solder to that connector rather than remove the
> right angle header
> (at least until your unit gets programmed with the
> bootloader.
> After that, anything goes)
> * You should not need flux for just wire soldering.
> The trick is to
> strip the wire a bit, twist the exposed wire (if
> stranded), hold
> the iron to the exposed wire, and then touch the
> solder to the
> wire (not the iron). Let the solder melt a bit on
> the wire (the
> flux is in the middle of the solder, so it needs a
> bit of time to
> get to the wire to clean it) and then pull the
> solder and iron.
> Then, insert the nicely "tinned" wire into the hole
> or on the
> connector and tap it with the soldering iron
> * I'm always interested in what does not work.
> * To that end, I'm at brain@xxxxxxxxxx, and the uIEC
> mailing list is
> at www.jimbrain.com/projects/uIEC/subscribe.html
> * I would not remove the IEC connector from the 64
> unless you need
> that hole for a mod. You can safely solder the
> wires to the back
> of the connector, or on the bottom of the
> motherboard.
> * I would not try connecting the uIEC to the serial
> port without
> power. Without proper power, the unit essentially
> backfeeds and
> pulls power from ATN, SRQ, DATA, CLK, and RESET
> through the pullup
> resistors on the VIC/64/128. But, the power is very
> unstable, not
> sent to the VCC of the uC, and is not 5V. That is
> why many
> devices appears to partially work with no power
> connected. If the
> goal is to enable/disable, You could install a
> single switch on
> the ATN line into the uIEC to "mute" it. But, if
> you bring out
> the "FWD/BACK" buttons from the connector (pin 8 and
> 9), you can
> press them at the same time to silence the device
> (press and hold,
> as I recall)
>
> I encourage folks to ask these questions on the uIEC list
> as well.
>
> Jim
>
>
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