[torontocbm] Re: uIEC's & Vic-20 + C64 hacking
- From: "danielkovacs" <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 23:11:10 -0500
That's a good idea. I have a few 64's (and now a Plus 4),
and would like to install the SD card in each one. I plan
on having the card come out the side of the power switch
etc, and attaching the LED's to a spot directly below the
power LED. I am also going to add a power switch to the
device and probable locate it somewhere near the slot
itself.
I'm going to try and get a custom label done up for it as I
know someone who can do 'metal labels' like commodore used
on their machines, it needs a cool name though, I was
thinking "C64-SD" or "C64 MS" (Massive Storage).
Maybe I will tap into the audio/video out and add RCA jacks
to the back of the system. It would be nicer than having to
use the commodore cable (as I only have one).
All I need now is to get Jiffydos in it too.
Dan
From: "Brian Lyons" <brian@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [torontocbm] uIEC's & Vic-20 + C64 hacking
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 20:39:53 -0500
----- Original Message Follows -----
> I changed name of the subject since it the "bug" issue has
> long since been dealt with and topic is now relates to
> install and use of this cool device.
>
> Have anyone tested this without the cassette port power
> applied?
>
> Will the /reset line on serial bus self power the uIEC?
> (this is often a problem with other devices being fed
> phantom power from /reset line).
>
> The reason I ask, is the potential to install this
> internally and then install a switch on case to enable /
> disable the unit via a toggle switch.
>
> Potentially, a person could use a double pole switch if
> both cassette port power and reset line need to be
> switched off to iIEC.
>
> With potential to load up GameBase64 in MicroSD card,
> installing the uIEC semi-permanently in a Vic-20 or C64
> sounds like a great option.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Daniel Kovacs
> To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:01 PM
> Subject: [torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware uIEC's and Jim
> Brain...
>
>
> Thanks Tom;
>
> I went out during my lunch and got a 30 watt iron, .6 mm
> solder as toggle switch and some "project wire (22 AWG)".
>
> How are the serial ports attached to the C64
> motherboards? Are they just soldered down? If so, it
> should be pretty easy to desolder it and attach the serial
> cable from the UIEC to the motherboard directly. The
> other thing I was thinking of was to solder to the exposed
> pins on the back of the port, but then would it cause any
> damage to attach a drive and the UIEC at the same time? I
> want to take it right off as I am wanting an all-in-one
> unit with the card slot.
>
> Dan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom Luff
> To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:03 AM
> Subject: [torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware uIEC's and
> Jim Brain...
>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> For any person new to the electrical soldering
> hobby I tell them all the same thing. If you are buying
> your tools and supplies from a place like Canadian Tire or
> Home Depot it is important to keep size in mind.
>
> Bigger is Not necessarily better despite what
> our woman say. You want to solder small wires or
> components not weld pipes together, so blow torches and
> solder from the pumping isle are out.
>
> All kidding aside what you should get is a
> soldering iron rated between 35 to 60 watts. 25 watts will
> work butt there will come a time when it will not.
> Secondly the iron should have changeable tips. The Weller
> (brand name) Irons I have, I have 2, both use tips that I
> can change from small points to large wide blades (1/4"
> wide) and each size tip can be purchased in different
> temperatures. The same size tips comes in 600, 700, 800
> and I think 900 degrees F. Start with a small round tip
> with a temperature of 700 degrees F. It will do a great
> deal of your jobs.
> The rule of thumb I use is if after 5 seconds
> the solder has not flowed then consider a larger tip.
>
> The longer you touch a hot soldering iron to a
> wire or board the more damage it will do.
>
> Solder should be thin and have a flux core. I
> use about .060 " thick. Flux is used for two main reasons
> 1) to help clean the surface(s) for the solder to attach
> to, 2) it aids in the transfer of heat from the soldering
> iron to the surface(s) being soldered.
>
> A few things to consider picking up would be a
> soldering iron stand, if one is not supplied with your
> iron. To remove excess solder use Solder Wick or a solder
> pump (also known as a solder sucker). And if you do not
> already wear glasses a pair of safety glasses should be
> wore any time you cut or solder. Even a pair of cheap sun
> glasses would be better than nothing.
>
> I will be at the TPUG meeting this coming
> Thursday if you would like to discuss this further.
>
> Tom Luff
> TPUG BoD
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 12/13/08, danielkovacs
> <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> From: danielkovacs
> <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware
> uIEC's and Jim Brain...
> To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Received: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 4:43 AM
>
>
> Hello All;
>
> I've am very happy with the unit and have not had any real
> concerns about it. I am planning on mounting it inside a
> C64 this weekend, but I have just a couple of questions:
>
> - I am planning on building a new cable - can I use
> copper (twisted pair from Cat 3/5 ethernet cable) in place
> of the serial cable in the C64? Does this matter for this
> kind of thing or should I get some of that stranded
> aluminum wire that the serial cable is currently built
> with. I know with electrical wiring you are not supposed
> to go from aluminum to copper but does it matter with
> electronics?
>
> - I need to buy solder, what kind should I get? Will I
> need flux? I will probably get a new soldering iron too,
> is there anything specifc I should get? (I know you can
> get them at different wattages).
>
> Dan
>
>
>
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