Hey Gil, For me it is a good deal. Each has different features. One thing I like about the uIEC is its usable on all the 8bits From the vic and later. Is able to fit inside a project box or the computer itself. And doesn't need a PC for power or anything else whilst in use. The price is quite reasonable too. l8r James > Is Jim Brain's unit still a good buy compared to the other options? > Gil > > On Sat, Dec 13, 2008 at 9:03 AM, Tom Luff <tomluff@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > Hi Dan, > > > > For any person new to the electrical soldering hobby I tell them all the > > same thing. If you are buying your tools and supplies from a place like > > Canadian Tire or Home Depot it is important to keep size in mind. > > > > Bigger is Not necessarily better despite what our woman say. You want to > > solder small wires or components not weld pipes together, so blow torches > > and solder from the pumping isle are out. > > > > All kidding aside what you should get is a soldering iron rated between 35 > > to 60 watts. 25 watts will work butt there will come a time when it will > > not. Secondly the iron should have changeable tips. The Weller (brand > > name) Irons I have, I have 2, both use tips that I can change from small > > points to large wide blades (1/4" wide) and each size tip can be purchased > > in different temperatures. The same size tips comes in 600, 700, 800 and I > > think 900 degrees F. Start with a small round tip with a temperature of 700 > > degrees F. It will do a great deal of your jobs. > > The rule of thumb I use is if after 5 seconds the solder has not flowed > > then consider a larger tip. > > > > The longer you touch a hot soldering iron to a wire or board the more > > damage it will do. > > > > Solder should be thin and have a flux core. I use about .060 " thick. Flux > > is used for two main reasons 1) to help clean the surface(s) for the solder > > to attach to, 2) it aids in the transfer of heat from the soldering iron to > > the surface(s) being soldered. > > > > A few things to consider picking up would be a soldering iron stand, if one > > is not supplied with your iron. To remove excess solder use Solder Wick or a > > solder pump (also known as a solder sucker). And if you do not already wear > > glasses a pair of safety glasses should be wore any time you cut or solder. > > Even a pair of cheap sun glasses would be better than nothing. > > > > I will be at the TPUG meeting this coming Thursday if you would like to > > discuss this further. > > > > Tom Luff > > TPUG BoD > > > > > > > > --- On *Sat, 12/13/08, danielkovacs <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>* wrote: > > > > From: danielkovacs <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > Subject: [torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware uIEC's and Jim Brain... > > To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Received: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 4:43 AM > > > > Hello All; > > > > I've am very happy with the unit and have not had any real > > concerns about it. I am planning on mounting it inside a > > C64 this weekend, but I have just a couple of questions: > > > > - I am planning on building a new cable - can I use copper > > (twisted pair from Cat 3/5 ethernet cable) in place of the > > serial cable in the C64? Does this matter for this kind of > > thing or should I get some of that stranded aluminum wire > > that the serial cable is currently built with. I know with > > electrical wiring you are not supposed to go from aluminum > > to copper but does it matter with electronics? > > > > - I need to buy solder, what kind should I get? Will I > > need flux? I will probably get a new soldering iron too, is > > there anything specifc I should get? (I know you can get > > them at different wattages). > > > > Dan > > > > > > >