[torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware uIEC's and Jim Brain...
- From: "Daniel Kovacs" <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:30 -0500
Thanks Tom;
I went out during my lunch and got a 30 watt iron, .6 mm solder as toggle
switch and some "project wire (22 AWG)".
How are the serial ports attached to the C64 motherboards? Are they just
soldered down? If so, it should be pretty easy to desolder it and attach the
serial cable from the UIEC to the motherboard directly. The other thing I was
thinking of was to solder to the exposed pins on the back of the port, but then
would it cause any damage to attach a drive and the UIEC at the same time? I
want to take it right off as I am wanting an all-in-one unit with the card slot.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Luff
To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware uIEC's and Jim Brain...
Hi Dan,
For any person new to the electrical soldering hobby I tell them all
the same thing. If you are buying your tools and supplies from a place like
Canadian Tire or Home Depot it is important to keep size in mind.
Bigger is Not necessarily better despite what our woman say. You want
to solder small wires or components not weld pipes together, so blow torches
and solder from the pumping isle are out.
All kidding aside what you should get is a soldering iron rated between
35 to 60 watts. 25 watts will work butt there will come a time when it will
not. Secondly the iron should have changeable tips. The Weller (brand name)
Irons I have, I have 2, both use tips that I can change from small points to
large wide blades (1/4" wide) and each size tip can be purchased in different
temperatures. The same size tips comes in 600, 700, 800 and I think 900 degrees
F. Start with a small round tip with a temperature of 700 degrees F. It will do
a great deal of your jobs.
The rule of thumb I use is if after 5 seconds the solder has not flowed
then consider a larger tip.
The longer you touch a hot soldering iron to a wire or board the more
damage it will do.
Solder should be thin and have a flux core. I use about .060 " thick.
Flux is used for two main reasons 1) to help clean the surface(s) for the
solder to attach to, 2) it aids in the transfer of heat from the soldering iron
to the surface(s) being soldered.
A few things to consider picking up would be a soldering iron stand, if
one is not supplied with your iron. To remove excess solder use Solder Wick or
a solder pump (also known as a solder sucker). And if you do not already wear
glasses a pair of safety glasses should be wore any time you cut or solder.
Even a pair of cheap sun glasses would be better than nothing.
I will be at the TPUG meeting this coming Thursday if you would like to
discuss this further.
Tom Luff
TPUG BoD
--- On Sat, 12/13/08, danielkovacs <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: danielkovacs <danielkovacs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [torontocbm] Re: Bugged firmware uIEC's and Jim Brain...
To: torontocbm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Received: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 4:43 AM
Hello All;
I've am very happy with the unit and have not had any real
concerns about it. I am planning on mounting it inside a
C64 this weekend, but I have just a couple of questions:
- I am planning on building a new cable - can I use copper
(twisted pair from Cat 3/5 ethernet cable) in place of the
serial cable in the C64? Does this matter for this kind of
thing or should I get some of that stranded aluminum wire
that the serial cable is currently built with. I know with
electrical wiring you are not supposed to go from aluminum
to copper but does it matter with electronics?
- I need to buy solder, what kind should I get? Will I
need flux? I will probably get a new soldering iron too, is
there anything specifc I should get? (I know you can get
them at different wattages).
Dan
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